We wanted a beach break combined with some culture and sight-seeing so decided on Athens with a trip to one of the Greek Islands, and settled on Milos. You can read about the Athens part of our trip here.
Milos is the perfect choice, only a short flight or ferry ride from Athens.
Where to stay?
We decided to stay in the port area of Adamas. This is the main ‘hub’ with restaurants, bars, car rentals etc. If you are planning on visiting Milos for a week or longer, I would split your time between Adamas and the capital, Plaka. We stayed in an apartment hotel called Milos Bay Suites, it was no frills but perfect for what we wanted and the staff were really friendly.
What to do on the Island?
It’s a small island but there is plenty to see. We rented a car so we could travel around the island freely. However, the west part of the island is all dirt roads so you’ll need a 4×4 or ATV to drive this part. We ended up returning our 4×4 as it was difficult to drive and just went for an automatic – we did manage to see the west part of the island via boat. We used Milos Rent for our car and had a really good experience with them.
That’s another recommendation – you have to do a boat trip round the island! This is the only way you can see the famous Kleftiko caves.
I also recommend watching sunset from a few different locations, for example looking down over the island from Plaka or from the fishing village of Klima.
Our itinerary – Day 1
We drove south to Agia Kyriaki. On first glance, the beach looks slightly rugged but once you reach the water you see how beautiful and crystal clear it is. This beach was very quiet and peaceful for us, there are no sun beds and I think this may be a factor. After a couple of hours we drove along to the next beach, Paliochori. This beach does has sun beds and also a restaurant. Again, beautiful crystal clear water to take a tip in.
In the evening we drove to Klima for sunset and dinner at Astakas, this is the only restaurant there. We didn’t reserve ahead and were very lucky to get a table, I would recommend calling ahead in the busy season. The sunset here is incredible and we had some amazing seafood, definitely a highlight of the trip and not to be missed.
We set off early for the famous Sarakiniko beach, it’s best to get there early before the crowds and also before it gets too hot. This is a must see when in Milos! The north of the island gets very windy and unfortunately it was too windy to swim at Sarakiniko. There’s still plenty to explore here, even if you can’t swim, and some fantastic photo opportunities. If you can, plan to visit on a less windy day but don’t miss out due to the weather.
Next we headed south to Fyriplaka beach, my favourite beach of the trip, where the weather was much calmer. Make sure you walk along the beach and past the rock for the most beautiful section (and quieter part). There are sun beds at this beach and also a small beach bar if you want a drink. Without a sun bed there’s not much shade so be prepared to either pay for shade or wear plenty of suncream!
While you’re here you have to see Tsigrado beach just next door, it’s more like a cove than a beach and is slowly disappearing. We were told on our boat tour that this beach is actually made man, by the sand from the nearby quarry, and since they can longer dump excess sand into the ocean the beach is disappearing. It’s tricky to access, you go down a very wobbly ladder followed by a larger and more secure ladder. Then you need to get back up, but it’s worth the hassle to see this little gem.
For sunset we drove up to Plaka. We arrived around 5pm and walked up to the castle for dusk. The views from the top are stunning. We didn’t bring anything with us so decided to find a bar for the actual sunset, however I would recommend taking a bottle of wine or some beers with you and watching from the castle. We were recommended Utopia Cafe in Plaka to watch the sunset and the view was fabulous! People had arrived early and waited for the bar to open (they opened at 6pm) so by 6.15pm all the tables on the terrace had gone. Drinks were relatively pricey but worth it for the view. I don’t think you can book ahead here so you either need to be early or lucky.
Unfortunately it was really windy again so we decided to avoid the north beaches and headed back to Paliochori. We wanted a day to fully relax so we stayed here all day. We grabbed lunch at the beach restaurant, Sirocco. Their speciality is volcanic sand-cooked food so we ordered the overnight lamb and it didn’t disappoint. The food in general was really good here and you get a nice view across the beach. From here you can also reach another beach (2 minute drive away) which also has sun beds and shade if you want more of a typical beach day.
This was my favourite day, our boat trip round the island. There are lots of boat tours available on the island, we went with Oneiro Milos. They were honestly fantastic. We paid 90 euros each but this was for a full day around the island plus breakfast, lunch and evening snack (basically more food than you could ask for). Plus lots of homemade wine and ouzo! If you’re looking for a boat tour I can’t recommend Oneiro enough, it was just a fantastic day and one we’ll remember for a long time!
Every part of Milos was beautiful and I’m so grateful I was able to visit. Travelling during Covid-19 felt strange but it also allowed us to see this stunning island without the crowds. Hopefully this itinerary has given you plenty of ideas for your trip to Milos. I’d love to hear about your experiences of the island too.